The variety and cost of weathering products sold these days offers a bewildering array of choices to the modeler. Many of us find that we buy way more than we need, and certainly more than we end up using.

I’ve been building and weathering models for long enough now to know that the learning process is never-ending. With every build I learn something new, or at least I refine something I’ve done before. Through it all, however, I keep coming back to a certain small set of products that, together, end up providing about 95% of what I needed to do the job, even when that job kept changing and my skillset improved.

So - I thought I’d create a short list of those items that I feel are indispensable for my own work. I sincerely hope that some folks disagree with me; with what I’ve included (or excluded). Just opening that discussion will open doors to new ideas, and that’s what this is all about. [Except where noted, all of these products can be purchased at Skyway Model Shop.]

In no particular order…

• Please Note: To show no favoritism to any modeling supplies websites, the Web Coordinator has chosen to show only the manufacturer's website where possible, and to randomly pick stores to spread coverage to various retailers. While this may be overall the most "fair" way of showing these products, it is probably neither the most convenient nor inexpensive avenue of obtaining any of these products. Also, many of these products can be obtained through local craft stores, local hobby stores, online hobby stores, so shop locally first if possible to keep our local stores in business.
  
  
• Mona Lisa Odorless Paint Thinner
  I use this to thin all non-acrylic (‘distillate’) weathering products, including washes, filters and pigments. It is very gentle - will not affect underlying paint, no matter what it is. Mona Lisa comes in several sizes and can be found at Benjamin Franklin’s, Michaels, or similar store.
  
  
• Gunze Self-Leveling Paint Thinner
  I use this to thin Tamiya and AK Interactive Real Color paints, my go-to brands of modeling paint. Mixed 50/50 paint/thinner will provide me with an perfect, repeatable airbrush session.
  
  Every time.
  
  
• Mig Wash Brown (tube) Oil Paint
  Like all Mig Oils, this has a very fine pigment. I mix it with Mona Lisa before each use, for filters and washes.
  
  
• Mig Dark Wash (pre-mixed bottle)
  I thin this 10-1 as a pin wash. This is nearly identical to Burnt Umber Oil Paint in color and hue.
  
  
• Mig European Dust Pigment
  I apply this wet (for mud or dusty tires) or dry (directly to the model surface).
  
  
• Mig Russian Earth Pigment
  Ditto, but darker.
  
  
• (Any) Silver (tube) Oil, Wax Paint, or Uschi Chrome Pigment
  I dry brush (or apply with my finger and/or an artist’s blender) to highlight metal surfaces and guns. It’s ‘modeling bling’. Uschi’s product is akin to Etch-a-Sketch powder.
  
  
• Vallejo Model Air Light Brown (17ml bottle)
  I spray this on as road dust, thinned 5:5:1 (drops Vallejo thinner:Vallejo paint:Liquitex Flow Aid.
  
  
• Tamiya Buff + Tamiya Light Grey (1:1), thinned 50/50 with Gunze Self Leveling Thinner
  Ditto, but lighter.
  
  
• Vallejo Model Color German Cam Black Brown (17ml bottle)
  I use this un-thinned for paint chips and rust spots.
  
  
• AK Interactive Streaking Grime (bottle)
  I streak this on a glossy surface, un-thinned. I let it dry and then work it with a clean brush or Q-Tip, damp with Mona Lisa.
  
  
• AK Interactive Track Wash (bottle)
  I use this un-thinned on armor track after paint but before pigments.
  
  
• Fine grade craft sand, real dirt (“moon dust”), and Plaster of Paris
  I use these for mud. These items can be found at Benjamin Franklin’s or Michaels.
  
  

Other products I depend on…

• (Any) thick Liquid Cement for Plastic Models
  I use this when I need time to work, such as assembling track, and with large parts, such as fuselage halves. Sticky in seconds yet workable up to six hours before drying rock hard.
  
  
• Tamiya (Green Top) Liquid Cement
  I use this when I want capillary action to draw the cement into assemblies.
  
  
• (Any) fortified White Glue (“Elmer’s on Steroids’)
  I use this for photo-etch and other applications when I want a strong and crystal-clear bond.
  
  
• (Any) Black or ‘Tire’ CA Glue
  I use this CA glue when I need to see (and thus clean up around) the glue application. I use “Looper’s” – specialized tools that make an easy task of this.
  
  
• Alclad Aqua-Gloss (an acrylic)
  I use this for all glossy coat applications, un-thinned.
  
  
• Vallejo Matt Varnish (17ml bottle)
  I use this for all flat coat applications, thinned 5:5:1 (drops Vallejo thinner:Vallejo paint:Liquitex Flow Aid.
  
  
• VMS Finishes, Satin and Flat
  I feel these high-end products bring models ‘to life’ and are worth the money. I spray the entire vehicle with the satin finish, and then the canvas and similar deck equipment, and all figures, with the flat varnish. These can be purchased online, from Michigan Toy Soldier.
  
  
• Perfect Plastic Putty
  I use this to fill seams and other gaps. It thins and cleans with water and requires no sanding. Think model-caulk.
  
  
• Gunze Mr. Surfacer 1200 or 1500
  These primers come in several colors and can be sprayed and/or brushed on. I use them to prepare surfaces for paint. I also use an old brush with these to stipple the surfaces, adding texture to an otherwise flat and lifeless surface.
  
  

And finally…

• A scalpel
  These last three products are actually the first three you should buy – these are indispensable. A scalpel gives me the edge (pun intended) in cleaning plastic, because making one pass at a tiny, delicate piece of plastic, instead of 3 or 4 passes with an Xacto knife, will produce better, and safer, results.
  
  
• A pair of God-Hand clippers
  I resisted buying these $50 clippers for years, until I tried them. Once. They cut through plastic like butter, and cut so, so cleanly.
  
  
• An Opti-Visor
  We are aging, and my sight is failing. This $60 investment will keep my modeling hobby going far longer than it would have without them. And like the God-Hand clippers, don’t waste your money on knock-offs. It needs to say Optivisor on it!
  
  

Thanks All, and Model On!
Eric