Tips and Tricks
- Basic Modeling Techniques
- General Modeling Techniques
- Advanced Techniques
- Creating realistic Bamboo
- Biplane Rigging Jig Assembly Instructions
- Rigging Instruction Guide
- WWII German Figure Painting Guide
- YouTube Video - Chipping and Chip Types
- A Slick Trick for Drag Slicks
- Airbrushing Armor
- Building an Airbrush Cleaner
- Building an Airbrush Paint Booth
- Airbrushing Using C02
- Keeping it Clean
- Using Filters
- Pigments Revisited
- Wonder Tape
- Working with Photoetch parts
- EXTERNAL SITE REFERENCES
Fine Scale Modeler Magazine Techniques - Scale Auto Magazine Techniques
- Scale Model Guide Techniques
- Cyber Modeler
- Genesis Models
Basic Weathering Series - Modeler Site
- Model Aces
- Testors Scale Workshop with Brett Green
- PlasticModels.eu
- Armorama Techniques
- Mig Step-by-Step Series Features
- Dirt and Grease - Mig Jimenez
- Jet Exhaust - Alexander Kutovenko
- Acrylic Washes - Sergiusz Pęczek
- Photoetch tips - Javier López de Anca
- Step-by-Step: Weathered Tank Wagon
- Step-by-Step: How to Paint a BTR 80
- Step-by-Step: How to Use Camouflage Masking Putty
- Step-by-Step: F-16 Fighter USAF
- Step-by-Step: Egyptian M109 2011
- Step-by-Step: Rusted Rails
- Step-by-Step: French Fighter Cover
- Step-by-Step: Colors in the Ukrainian Conflict
- Step-by-Step: How to Use Dry Earth Tracks
- Step-by-Step: How to Use Wet Earth Tracks
- Step-by-Step: World Rally Car
- Step-by-Step: How to Paint a NATO Truck
- Step-by-Step: Making Mud
- Step-by-Step: Finishing Tracks for Armor Projects
- Step-by-Step: French Fighter Cover
- Step-by-Step: Grey Scale - Painting in Modulation and Light
- Step-by-Step: MAXX-PRO
- Step-by-Step: Mud Splashes
- Step-by-Step: Weathering a T-34-85
- Step-by-Step: How to use Transparator
- Step-by-Step: Painting US NAVY F-14
- Step-by-Step: Winter Camouflage Painting - Episode 1 - Slightly Weathered
- Video - How to do streaking rust on a Zaku Lucca 2015
- Video - How to use filters on a Zaku Lucca 2015
- Video - How to make shadows on a Zaku
- Video - How to make Grazes, chips and scratches on a Zaku Lucca 2015
- Video - How to create dirt with pigments on a Zaku
- Video - How to create an accumulated dirt effect on a Zaku
- Video - How to use chipping effect on a Zaku
- Video - How to make Grease and wet effects
- Video - How to make Fading effects with oils
- Video - How to make Splashed dry mud
- Video - Chipping Effect
- Video - How to use Washes and pigments on rust
- Video - How to create winter camouflage mud effect
- Video - How to Create streaking rust on winter camouflage
- Video - Winter camouflage highlights and shadows using oil paints
- Video - Winter camouflage chipping
- Video - Winter camouflage streaking grime
- Video - How to Create highlights with oil paints on winter camouflage
- Video - How to use enamel washes on winter camouflage
- Video - How to Create streaking grime on panels
- Video - How to Create paneling on metal surfaces
- Video - How to Create base rust effects and final touches
- Video - How to use a washable base color
Tips and Tricks
Biplane Rigging Jig
by Jack Matthews
This Einstein quote is appropriate for this biplane assembly fixture; it’s simple, but it has a subtle feature that cannot be ignored.
The fixture holds the top wing relative to the bottom wing and allows adjustment for accurate positioning of the wings, dry fitting the struts, holding the struts in position as they are glued, and rigging.
The position of the wings in the fixture is adjustable and once it is correct the rubber bands can be closed in on the edges of the wings to hold them in place. The toothpicks are parallel so that the position of the wings, up and down, is adjustable. Here is the subtle feature mentioned earlier; the foam strips grip the toothpicks because of a shearing force between them. The edges of the strips are not aligned; they are offset so that the rubber bands create a shearing force between the foam strips. The shearing force is resisted by the toothpicks so that even when the holes enlarge with wear, the strips still grip the toothpicks.
The materials are as available as the nearest strip mall: thin Styrofoam (like that from a take-out clamshell container), rubber bands (like those used to hold the end of a braid together), and toothpicks.
Tools required are also simple: a blade. I also use a metal scale as a template to make strips that are a good width for the rubber bands I use and pins (or needles) to hold the strips still while piercing with toothpicks; helpful but not absolutely necessary.
To build the fixture:
Stack 4 strips as shown in the pictures; the edges
are staggered. The edges of the strips in the picture
are blackened to make the offset of the edges clearer,
it’s not necessary. Pinning them in place helps.
Push the toothpicks straight through the strips.
In these pictures the strips are on a cardboard box;
the toothpicks can go through the box as well. A
pilot hole made with a large needle makes it easier
to push the toothpick through.
Pull off the top 2 strips, keeping track of their
position. Put 2 rubber bands, twisted double,
around each toothpick.
Return the top 2 strips to the toothpicks making sure they are in the same position. Move the rubber bands onto the strips, just inside the toothpicks. At this point the same shearing force that grips the toothpicks has moved the strips from being square with the toothpicks to being at an angle to them; the shift also decreases the grip of the strips on the toothpicks. This can be dealt with later.
Put 4 more rubber bands on the strips, twisted double, just outside the toothpicks.
Repeat the process, making the other fixture required.
If one of the fixtures is rotated, front to back, the top wing can be used to pull the toothpicks back to square with the strips when the fixture is mounted on the biplane.
Put the cross bracing toothpick under the rubber bands on the outside of the toothpicks. Move the rubber bands holding the cross bracing toothpick toward each other until the angle between the toothpicks and the strips is the same as the angle between the model wings and struts. Close is good enough, there is a lot of room for adjustment in this fixture.
To use the fixture, put the bottom wing through the bottom strips, the top wing through the top strips, and adjust whatever it takes to put the top wing where you want it. Compare it to a drawing. Test fit the struts. When you are satisfied with everything’s location, move the inside rubber bands close to the edges of the wings. Look at it again to make sure everything is still where you want it.
Jack Matthews
IPMS Seattle, Northwest Scale Modelers