Model: Pz.Kpfw.IV Ausf.H w/Zimmerit, Mid-Production, HJ Div. Normandy
Reviewed by: Eric Christianson, IPMS # 42218
Company: Dragon Models
Product/Stock #: 06611
Website: Dragon Models
Product Web Page: View
Product provided by: Dragon Models
Dragon Models offers a complete lineup of the Pz.Kpfw. IV family tree in 1/35 scale. Following on the footsteps of their (Late Production) H released four years ago, their new (Mid Production) H represents a specific vehicle in the 12th Panzer Hitlerjugend Division, fighting in the defense of Caen, June, 1944. Like the earlier release, the Mid-Production H comes with molded-on Zimmerit and one-piece DS tracks. New to this kit, however, are turret side skirts with Zimmerit as well as a brand new frontal armor plate containing the steering-brake hatches. The only other change is that Dragon has replaced the aluminum barrel in the original kit with a slide molded one in the update. For fit and finish, I prefer the latter, so that's also a welcome replacement.
All of Dragon's Mk IV's come with enough parts to completely fill the somewhat sturdy box and then some. There are extra parts on every sprue, many of which are zimmerit replacement versions. There is an optional axe (with and without a molded-on bracket) but otherwise the single set of pioneer tools come with molded on fittings, with no PE replacement options. There are three (!) extra antennas and a set of Mg34 tripod parts that won't be used. A single PE sheet sports exhaust louvers and drive-sprocket rings, but is otherwise somewhat sparse for Dragon. There are two sturdy aluminum sheets containing separate schürtzen sections and a set of beautifully thin DS track with enough extra length to represent the ubiquitous track-sag common to this vehicle.
The contents of the box include:
The kit comes with eight color schemes represented, using blue-and-white ink three-view drawings; and a small (but perfectly registered) sheet of decals from Cartograph of Italy. These include:
This is a 'fortified re-box', so there are sprues from no less than six different Dragon kits included in the box. I was able to identify two Ausf. H kits (with/without zimmerit), two Brummbär kits (with/without zimmerit), a PzKpfw G with zimmerit, and one just labeled PzKpfw IV (no Ausf. version). As a consequence, I found three significant miss-labels in the instructions:
If you make the mental adjustments, however, things will go pretty well. Curiously, when I compare the older Ausf. H (Late production w/zimmerit) instructions with this new version, the new set is completely reworked. While the parts are the same in most cases, the images are slightly different, like they were drawn from a different angle, which leaves me with the impression that Dragon worked mightily on trying to improve things for this kit.
Assembly sequence varies by modeler but the general flow of things go pretty much as Dragon intended. The exceptions I made are identified in the text below.
There are a whole lot of assembly options to choose between and you can save yourself a lot of time by making those decisions up front, annotating the instructions, and removing all the parts you won't need from the sprues. In addition, there are several places where the options are called out for a specific (Normandy) vehicle and options for vehicles with schürtzen or not, so you might want to note those carefully as well. Also, since many of the parts are mislabeled with incorrect sprue letters, marking up those will help when searching the 27 sprues for the right part.
There are several 'gotcha' areas that, if you don't do things in the right order, you can end up with problems. Fortunately, these are all in Step 7, so take care when you reach that part of the build (see the separate section on that step, below).
Finally – the two sets of side skirts are cut into two aluminum sprues. I suggest that you leave these sections on the sprue for treatment, paint, sealing and finish since it will help you to keep the different sections in the correct order. Refer to the images below.
The assembly of the lower chassis went together very well; the overall detail and fit is excellent. Curiously, you are instructed to make six sets of hooks in Step 2 (labeled assemblies E and R), even though these won't be used until Steps 10, 16 ad 17. More importantly, these are easier to assemble if you attach the baseplates (Parts A50 and A51) to the hull or turret before slipping in the hooks (Parts A53). I suggest you wait until when they are needed to put these things on the model. In Step 5 there is an overly-complicated procedure (in my opinion) for assembling the length of spare track to drape across the hatch on the upper-front hull plate. Having built these before I knew what to expect, but I suggest that you snip, clean and label each piece carefully since it's kind of a puzzle. I laid all the pieces out on a stick board before assembly.
The four bogies on each side fit well, but still have a little wiggle room and the wheels on the Mk. IV really need to line up perfectly. I used a small steel ruler set along the slot between the wheels to do this.
This step contains several areas that can cause you problems. Some are inherent to all Dragon PzKpfw IV kits; others appear to be unique to this kit.
In Step 9 you are asked to shave the hatch guards off from the upper deck and replace them with parts F1 and F2. This is done easily enough since the plastic is very soft and shaves easily. Once glued, however, I found that I had to trim away some of the new material to fit the two hatches (parts E22 and E23) down securely. Lesson: before the new guards are dry, test fit the hatches to make sure you have room for them to seat properly.
Also, the twin posts (Part A52) in Step 9 that hold the tow cables on the back of the vehicle are not up to the task, being too fragile and without a sturdy connection to the hull. An alternative might be to affix metal replacements made of wire. I chose to leave the cables off the hooks (and the vehicle) altogether.
In Step 10, the front glacis plate (Assembly L) does not extend down far enough to meet the main deck once glued in place, most likely due to the zimmerit. I cut and fit a small shim of plastic card along the bottom edge to fill in the gap. Step 12 brings (yet another) new design for the ubiquitous German jack assembly. I like it!
In Step 13 you assemble the commander's cupola and hatch. I don't know why Dragon went with this particular design, but whether you choose to have the view ports open or closed, the fit is not good. I test fit everything several different ways and found the whole assembly to be a real headache. Going very slowly and deliberately, clamping each piece as I went, I still ended up with enough gaps and protrusions to prevent this build from ever seeing competition. I ended up having to sand and fill the flaws like an old Frog kit. Grrr.
On the other end of the spectrum, the multi-part, double hatches on each side of the turret went together perfectly and fit snug into the turret.
And I must say: there are fifty ways for the turret base and schürtzen brackets not to fit right, but Dragon solved every one of them. Every part can fit only one way, and the joints are solid. Hands down, this is the best design and engineering I've seen on a Mk. IV for this complicated set of interconnecting parts.
At one point in time DS track runs were thick and difficult to work with, tending to 'bow' outwards when installed. Replicating 'track sag' involved a lot of effort and rarely looked right. Not anymore. The two runs of DS track in this kit are very thin and beautifully detailed. [Note: Please see the paragraph labeled 'Track' down in the Painting and Finish section to see how I painted the track before attaching it to the tank.]
Assembly was a snap. I connected the ends using Tamiya 'green top' thin cement and installed them without any problems. I wanted to leave several of the schürtzen side panels off and (thankfully) Dragon left enough slack in the DS track to adequately reproduce the sag common to the Mk. IV. I dabbed a little Testors 'black bottle' liquid cement to the wheels and return rollers, pulling each section down on the upper portion of the track just a little as the glue set. Perfect.
The Mark IV is a stand-up tank. Tracks, bogies, turret, big gun – it's all there. You can build it all and then paint it if you wish, which is the approach I always take. You do have to make some choices in sequence since you have schürtzen and DS track to paint and weather, but otherwise everything else is pretty straight forward.
(Note: I thin all Tamiya paint and primer products 50:50 with Gunze Mr. Color Leveling Thinner, which has its own retarder for airbrushing. If you haven't tried this thinner with Tamiya paints, you really should. I use a Pasche-H Single-Action airbrush, Number #3 tip, at 20 lbs. pressure for everything. I use Vallejo's own thinner for all Vallejo paints.)
For the schürtzen, I created a sticky board for the five plastic pieces of turret plating, and I used a coarse drywall sanding block to rough up both surfaces of the two aluminum sprues containing the side plates. These plates would remain on their sprues all the way through painting, sealing, and weathering. After wiping off any aluminum powder residue left over from sanding, I sprayed a primer coat of Gunze Mr. Surfacer 1200 on both sides of the two aluminum sprues and set them aside to dry and de-gas.
Before the track went on the vehicle, I painted both sides of each run the same color as the main vehicle's pre-shade base - see Step 1, below. Once the flat brown base coat was dry, I used a 'Mini' Q-tip to apply Model Master Dark Anodonic Gray Buffing Metalizer to the centerline posts of the tracks. This smaller, tighter (and cheaper) Q-Tip can be found at any drug store. It is less fluffy and works great at getting into tight spots.
Before the side schürtzen went on, I put a little Gamblin Artists Oil Silver paint straight from the tube onto my pinky finger and rubbed it over the cleats and track edges to bring out a metallic glint where I needed it. The shine would be knocked down a little by dry pigment and flat varnish applied later on.
The PzKpfw IV Ausf H with side skirts is one of the iconic tanks of World War II, and it is no wonder that Dragon has taken on this family of AFV's to produce some of the very best models on the market. The build is challenging – there are a lot of parts and several areas require a little experience in problem solving. Still – the parts fit and are beautifully detailed; together making these kits a lot of fun to build.
The design of the schürtzen and the hardware to support its various pieces is simply brilliant, and in my opinion, the very best available. I've built the 'H' from three manufacturer's now, and Dragon sets the bar here.
The thin DS track has evolved into an excellent alternative to the Magic Track, which itself was a wonderful product (and still is). I just wish the DS runs would come in a more 'military' color since they are such a chore to paint.
The slide molding, included in all Dragon kits now, has really improved the detail and build-ability of their kits. This is nowhere more apparent than with their tank barrels which are, in my opinion, a vast improvement over the ill-fitting and hard-to-paint aluminum versions.
And last but not least, Dragon thoughtfully designs their models so that every hatch, door or access panel can be built in the open position, with more than enough interior detail to get you started if you roll that way. One of these days, when I have more time...
On the downside; while Dragon has been improving their instructions as of late, and what you get with this kit appears to be another rework toward that end, there are still enough errors to cause a novice to become frustrated. I breezed through most of the problems simply because I've already made the mistakes in prior Dragon Mk. IV builds and learned from them. With such brilliant engineering and design, however, it is a shame that the instructions and related quality control issues detract from what otherwise would be a perfect build experience.
Still - I can recommend this kit to all modelers who are up to the small challenges that a kit with so many parts and options will offer. If you mark up the instructions beforehand as suggested, and go slow, you shouldn't have any problems.
I would like to thank Dragon Models and Dragon USA for providing this kit for review, and to IPMS USA for giving me the opportunity to build it.